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Chemical Peels

Restore Wellness & Aesthetic’s skin care professionals provide chemical peels of varying depths and strengths to reduce fine lines, even pigment and rejuvenate skin. Chemical peels are individually tailored to suit your needs.

Glycolic and Salicylic Peels

Light fruit-acid derived peels that help boost skin softness, and smoothness by exfoliating dead cells, speeding up cell turnover and stimulating the production of collagen (the protein fiber that keeps skin from sagging and wrinkling). These superficial peels involve some slight stinging or tingling but can be performed safely on practically all skin types. A series is recommended for best results.

A chemical peel removes the outer layers of skin to help improve the overall skin function and enhance the experience.

Mechanism of action:- These chemicals remove the outer skin layers and work on the principle of wound healing whereby controlled wounding of the skin layers help stimulate cell renewal and regenerate healthier epidermis and dermis. There are two mechanisms Keratolysis and Keratocoagulation.

Keratolysis:- such as lactic acid, glycolic acid penetrate the stratum corneum and disrupt corneocyte adhesion by disrupting intercellular desmosomal bonds.

Keratocoagulation such as TCA destroys surface cells through protein denaturation and keratinocyte coagulation.

Both of these mechanisms cause skin desquamation and acceleration of the epidermal renewal process which is good for the skin.

Depths of skin resurfacing

Superficial peels penetrate the epidermis and possible the papillary dermis and thus help with fine lines, enlarged pores, atrophic scars.

Medium depth peels penetrate the entire epidermis, papillary and also the upper reticular dermis.

Deep peels penetrate the entire epidermis, papillary dermis and also penetrate the mid-reticular dermis.

Medium depth peels and deeper peels help with deep scars, deep wrinkles, deep lines, creases.  They offer greater skin rejuvenation benefits. However, they also have greater risks of adverse outcome and complications.

Chemical Peel Products

  1. Alpha Hydroxy acids/AHA: primarily derived from fruits. This includes

Glycolic acid(GA)(derived from sugarcane) ;  Lactic acid(LA) ( derived from milk); Mandelic acid(derived from almonds); citric acid(derived from citrus fruits); tartaric acid(derived from grapes); malic acid(derived from apples); phytic acid(derived from rice).

Glycolic acid and Lactic acid used mainly. Lactic acid is inherently hydrating since lactic acid from lactate which is a component of the skin ’s natural moisturizing factor functioning as a humectant.

  1. Beta Hydroxy Acids: primarily derived from trees

Salicylic acid(SA): derived from willow bark tree, wintergreen oil, and sweet birch. It is Lipophilic and this enables it to penetrate and dissolve sebum making it highly effective for the treatment of acne. SA also has a mild anesthetic effect and this helps produce less stinging upon application. It is an anti-inflammatory agent.

Beta-lipohydroxy acid is a newer chemical peel which is derived from Salicylic acid which has greater lipophilicity which makes it more effective for the treatment of acne.

  1. Trichloroacetic acid(TCA): produced synthetically from acetic acid and chlorine. Usually used for medium to deep chemical peels. Forms a frosting which cannot be wiped out as the endpoint. It is helpful with deep scars
  2. Resorcinol/Phenol: Resorcinol is a phenol derivative is generally used for medium to deep chemical peels. However, used in high concentrations it can cause complication such as methemoglobinemia and myxedema and needs to be used with great care and exact concentrations.
  3. Retinoids: derived from Rosehip seed oil but modern processes produce this synthetically.

These are usually used as booster peels which are layered over other superficial peels such as SA, GA to intensify the peel treatment and enhance desquamation of skin. They do leave a temporary yellow discoloration of the skin after application.

These are extremely useful as they also inhibit melanogenesis, increase collagen production, and reduce keratinization within hair follicles making them beneficial for many skin conditions.

  1. Enzymes: most chemical peels are acids. Proteolytic enzymes can also be used to exfoliate the skin and are used for superficial peeling.

Bromelian(derived from pineapple); lactose(derived from sour milk); papain(derived from papaya); pepsin, pumpkin, tomato extracts etc. They usually have a pungent dour due to their source of origin.

SKIN TYPE AND TYPES OF PEELS USED

OILY SKIN: Salicylic Acid, Glycolic acid, retinoids preferred.

DEHYDRATED/ DRY SKIN: Lactic acid preferred

SENSITIVE SKIN/ROSACEA: Mandelic acid, Lactic acid, Salicylic acid preferred(albeit at lower concentrations)

ADVANCED PHOTOAGING: Medium and deep peels such as Jessner, TCA peels, etc

There are numerous chemical peels available in the market now.

VI Peel

This is gentle and beneficial for all skin types. This is one of the safest and most effective peels available on the market today. It is gentle enough to treat age spots and wrinkles under the eyes. This peel is gentle on the skin and effective for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. It helps remove wrinkles, eradicate acne and acne scarring and improves sun damage.

It uses a unique combination of Retin-A, TCA, SA, Phenol, Vitamin C.

Cosmelan Depigmentation peel

This is the most effective peel for hyper-pigmentary conditions such as melasma. It helps transform splotchy skin into a more balanced even tone complexion. It is a multi-ingredient peel which helps inhibit melanogenesis and this results in improvement of skin discoloration and reduction of hyperpigmentation providing an even complexion.

Jessner’s peel

This is multi-ingredient peel which contains SA, LA, and Resorcinol. This is a medium depth peel and is effective for numerous skin conditions. This is ideal for people with thick, oily acne prone skin with advanced photoaging.